In pursuit of Olsen-esque, pre-Raphaelite hair
And my favorite products for messy, unfussy, lived-in waves
Up until just a few short days ago, New York had been experiencing quite a British summer. Personally, and to the surprise of no one, I enjoyed this prolonged spell of June gloom, especially knowing that a heat wave was looming heavily in the air. (Is that Toccata and Fugue in D minor I hear in the distance?) Well, the heat wave is no longer just looming as it has arrived like a bat out of hell– and now I understand why so many Renaissance women were pictured lying topless on a fainting couch, because same. Any degree of humidity does a number on not only my will to live but also my hair, creating a frizzy, Medusan lion’s mane that can’t be tamed. Perhaps you share my plight. But instead of fighting it, I’m just letting it be free (not unlike those exasperated ladies on the sofa).
I’ve regaled you with my love of messy hair, and long, witchy waves numerous times in the past. I arrived at this place some time ago after being tethered to a flatiron during college, and then subsequently frying the life out of my hair through being platinum blonde for five years. For a while, I had to forgo heat on my hair, out of necessity, lest I resign myself to life with a chemical cut (picture Chrissie Hynde in the 80s, except not in a cool way). Now 6 or 7 years into my hair-growth journey, I’ve come to love my naturally, somewhat-wavy hair texture, which thrives most when it’s subjected to the elements of Parisian rain (what the hell is in the actual water over there?).
Maybe it’s my appreciation for the waist-length waves that cascade down the backs of Titian-haired women in pre-Raphaelite paintings, a lifetime admiration of the Olsens, or a childhood obsession with mermaids. It’s probably a combination of each of these things, and then some, including Patti Smith, Stevie Nicks, and a gaggle of chic Parisian ladies. At this stage of my life, I prefer to dedicate my energy towards embracing imperfection rather than striving to look perfectly manicured all the time. And I deeply enjoy the contrast between an outfit that is glamorous, considered, and/or sophisticated, and hair that is just a little bit of a mess. Lucky for me, that comes naturally this time of year (the messy hair, that is).
There is a time and a place for perfectly-coiffed hair, and for not having, as they say, a single hair out of place. But most days, I crave hair that appears slept in, lived in, and as though it just walked out of a Francesca Woodman photograph. Or off the Chloé runway. Or swam up from the depths of the sea and got hit by Zeus’ lightning bolt.
Anyway, by now you probably catch my drift. So without further ado, here’s my tried-and-true selections for living in harmony with my natural hair, and simply enhancing it. (Yes, this, too, takes effort and the irony is not lost on me.)
Color
I used to get a full head of Deneuve-blonde highlights every few months, but due to my hair’s fragility, and my current preference for a more dimensional look, I stopped doing that about 1.5-2 years ago. I now only have my hair colored every six months to a year and opt for a natural root and a subtle, lived-in balayage. I go to Colleen Flaherty at Spoke and Weal who completely understands my vision for hair that looks like it did when I was a sun-soaked 5-year-old with natural, shimmery blonde highlights.
Cut
I have nothing to add here as I have a psychological aversion to hair cuts. Sorry! I know I probably should be getting regular, or at least occasional trims, but I don’t. Every person whose hair I admire–including the London-based PR maven, Daisy Hoppen, and numerous French women with enviable locks–has told me to just lose the scissors at sea. So long, Fiskars.
Styling Tools
I try to let my hair air dry as often as possible, but when in a pinch I turn to my Dyson Air Wrap ID. This is VERY, VERY rarely, by the way. Yes, it’s as good as everyone says it is. (The T3 Aire 360 is also very good and for a fraction of the price, but I’m partial to the Dyson attachments.)
A few years ago, the hairstylist Tommy Buckett taught me the S-wave technique using a flat iron for pre-Raphaelite waves. Prior to learning this, I was using a curling wand and wrapping small sections for loose waves. This also works, but S-waves look cooler (in my opinion) and last longer. I’ll usually just pop a few in after letting my hair air dry to enhance my natural waves.
I’ve had my Mason Pearson brush for almost a decade. It’s a cult favorite for a reason, and I still use and enjoy it. However, when I was introduced to La Bonne Brosse over a year ago by Céline Kaplan, I instantly fell in love. These brushes come in an assortment of bristle types based on your hair type, a variety of appealing colors, and a travel size perfect for on the go. And not for nothing, the brand was founded by two very chic French women, and (if you haven’t already gathered) I trust the French with my life when it comes to hair. The irony that several French women have also told me that, in order to achieve said “French girl hair” to simply ditch the hair brush entirely. I can’t keep up, but I’ve converted just about everyone in my life to the LBB religion in the meantime, including my very practical father.
Products
Truth be told, I was initially drawn to Oribe’s Gold Lust line many moons ago as it reminded me of the high priestess of rock ‘n roll (yes, I’m talking about the Gold Dust Woman). But the whole line is golden indeed, as its name suggests. The oil in particular, though, is incredibly special, hydrating my ends and giving them a sparkly, je ne sais quoi piecey-ness.
Iles Formula (Shampoo, Conditioner, and Serum)
I started using Iles Formula a few years ago and instantly loved it, and then I heard through the grapevine that the Olsens swear by it which cemented its status for me as a holy grail line. Their products contain Japanese silk, that when activated by heat, behaves like a silk blanket. The serum in particular is a standout, giving my strands a healthy shine and texture. I usually wash my hair 2-3x/week, depending on the elements.
They really knocked it out of the park with this one. As I said, I avoid putting heat on my hair as much as possible and this makes air-drying all the more enticing. I apply a quarter-sized amount on towel-dried hair, tszuj it up, and let it work its magic. It takes minimal effort and the result is a head full of Olsen-esque, easygoing waves.
I’ve tried countless dry shampoos over the years: some are so-so, others leave a white cast, or have a funky smell. This one by Living Proof not only smells divine but is both instantly refreshing and profoundly volumizing. Not to mention, it’s a summer staple for me, especially during a historic heat wave.
It’s only been within the past couple of years that I’ve started taking scalp care seriously, but I suppose flowers grow best from fertile ground? (That’s a legitimate question, by the way, as I’ve never even been able to keep a succulent alive.) I love the entire Roz line, and especially this scalp oil, which I usually apply on a Sunday afternoon while tidying up. I leave in for several hours before rinsing out.
Living Proof Heat Styling Spray
When I do opt to use heat on my hair, I never go forth without a heat protectant. The Iles Formula serum has heat protectant in it, but if my hair is already dry I’ll also use Living Proof’s heat protectant for good measure.
My ends can get pretty crunchy, so once or twice a week I’ll apply a hydrating masque on the ends and leave it in for as long as possible. I’ve been using this one by Leonor Greyl for a decade now. It smells amazing and makes my hair feel alive again.
Christophe Robin Purifying Salt Scrub
When I was little, I used to bottle up ocean water to bring home to Pennsylvania and spritz on my hair all summer long. In retrospect, that’s probably kind of gross, but hey, I’m a Pisces, and it worked. My evolved version of that concoction is this salt scrub by Christophe Robin. Nothing makes my hair and scalp feel cleaner or more baby soft, and the texture it gives is simply divine.
Sam McKnight Cool Girl Texturizing Spray
Usually my hair carries enough texture on its own, particularly during the summer months. But when it needs a little extra oomph, I turn to a texturizing spray. This one, from a man who knows cool hair (and gave Princess Diana her iconic haircut), is my current favorite.
The former beauty editor in me is always dubious of products and supplements that claim to correct hair damage or repair bonds, but as it turns out, Christina, not everything is a scam! I’ve been using this once per week in place of a conditioner for years, and I have definitely noticed a difference in the strength of my hair–and less breakage.
And if all else fails, I’m sure there is an Etsy hair witch somewhere who can work some magic.
XX
CG
This was such a great post! I keep hearing so many conflicting opinions about air drying vs using heat. Some say it’s damaging to the hair if it’s wet for too long and say heat is fine as long as the hair dryer keeps moving and is far enough away. Good to hear your thoughts on the matter - your hair looks fabulous!
Christina I sat near you at an Hermes’ lunch in Athens once and you really do have hair like a Botticelli girl 😭 I love this post